So! I finally got around to writing about the most sumptuous food I ate while I was in Granada several weeks ago. Granada is one of the only places left in Spain where you are served free tapas with drinks in the evening hours. I consider myself somewhat of an amateur foodie, and when the food is also free…..it’s almost too good to be true. Come 8 PM, most bars or restaurants you frequent will dole out small portions of food with each beverage you order. They change it up so you get something a little different every time, although some places let you choose which tapas you want.
The variety of tapas in Granada is vast. In one night, I ate fresh, plump sashimi cuts of tuna and yellowtail, fried Spanish croquetas with salty ham inside and a creamy, French potato dish with rich camembert. It was clearly tough tapas competition to stand out amongst all the diversity. I narrowed it down, though, and the following establishments charmed me most with their incredible tapas.
Bar Poë
The brainchild of an Englishman and an African woman, this tapas bar features amazing food for which the recipes have been accumulated during the owners’ travels all over the world. Each day, Matt (husband) readies the bar while Ana (wife) goes to the market to buy all the ingredients for their dishes. She then does most of the food prep before the bar gets busy at dinner time. When it starts to fill up, they both pour frosty mugs of beer and shots of Absinthe while socializing with their loyal clientele. Meanwhile, a chef in the back transforms the tapas from a state of near-completion to the steaming pile of plated goodness that’s presented to you. The first thing I tasted was the thai chicken tapa. Tender, juicy bits of chicken breast come in a thick, savory broth with thai chili and coriander. The whole thing is accompanied by rice, so you mix it all together and dive in. It was the perfect amount of spice that a faint heat lingered in my mouth, which was then righted by a huge gulp of ice-cold Alhambra Especial from the tap. Next, I sampled the Brazilian pork skewer. Alternating morsels of salty pork and sweet pineapple are char-grilled on a wooden spear and brought out still sizzling, and it is delectable. Finally, I must mention the black beans and rice – my good friend Brittany’s favorite. Even to the most carnivorous of meat lovers, the richness of these beans are second to none and will definitely not disappoint.
calle verónica de la magdelena, 40
Café Om Kalsum
This bar seems nearly empty when you approach it from the street. But as soon as you heave open the thick wooden doors, you are accosted by a loud buzz of conversation. Your nose is hit with a scent so delicious there’s no way it actually is coming from the food being prepared here. Specializing in Moroccan dishes, this ever-crowded cave is warmly lit and walled in patterned cushions where you can sit and enjoy a tapa or five. I only tried two varieties of tapas here, but those were more than enough to win over my palate. First came the cute mini-shawarmas, stuffed with chunks of flavorful spiced chicken, fresh crunchy lettuce and a creamy white sauce that cut the spice of the meat perfectly. The second was a shallow dish of tender Moroccan noodles with peanuts and a sweet, cinnamon-y sauce. The two of those were so delightful that I didn’t want to order anything else, so I didn’t. I have no doubt in my mind, though, that anything you order here would be deliciously prepared and leave your tastebuds more than satisfied.
calle jardines, 17
Café Piaf
Named after the famed French chanteuse Édith Piaf (who is stunningly personified by Marion Cotillard in one of my favorite movies, La Vie En Rose), this little bar is owned by one of the quirkiest people I met on my trip. His name is Bryce, and his love for his business and his customers is radiant. The second time I was there with my host Brittany and her roommate Sara, Bryce came over to our table and took our order. He spoke to the other two ladies in broken English and Spanish, while I attempted to unearth my limited French vocabulary to make a joke or two and tell him how much I loved his bar. As soon as our food was delivered and finished, Bryce returned. He plopped down at the table with a bottle of Cuervo, a dish full of lemon slices and asked if we wanted shots. Asking a couple of recent IU grads and a lush Jew from the Hamptons if they want free tequila is a little redundant, n’est-ce pas? We joked with him about drinking on the job, and what we were doing in Granada, and how long his bar had been open. One tequila shot turned into three, and the almost-empty bar became raucous again with our howls of laughter. Decadent French tapas combined with Bryce’s personable hospitality made this my favorite tapas bar in Granada. The highlights included a perfectly toasted little croque-monsieur with smooth camembert and the creamiest béchamel sauce. There was also the “lomo” which consisted of a thin slice of delicately seasoned pork with cheese on a crusty baguette. Oh, and can’t forget my favorite. Another slice of French bread and more lightly browned and melted camembert, but this time accompanied by a small pot of lush strawberry preserves meant to be spread on top. The ideal combination of fruit and cheese. Ah mon effing dieu.
calle del buensuceso, 13
Next time you are in Granada, pay these places a visit. I promise the atmosphere and the food will make your tapas experience a great one!
. Congrats Evan!
